FAQ

Price depends on three things: the size of the tree, what’s underneath it, and how we can get equipment to it.

A straightforward removal in an open backyard is a very different job from a large tree overhanging a roof, a pool, or hydro lines — the second needs a crane, more crew, and more time.

We quote on site and the assessment is free. You’ll get a fixed price before any work starts, including cleanup and disposal.

Larger or more complex jobs — crane work, restricted access, trees close to structures — take longer, and we’ll tell you what to expect when we quote.

We run large crews, which gets the job done faster and means less disruption to your street. We clean up fully, remove all brush, and can grind the stump at the same visit if you want it gone.

Every two to four years for most urban trees.

Left unpruned, trees grow up and out until sunlight can’t reach the interior. That leads to dieback in the structural limbs and the trunk.

Good maintenance means elevating lower limbs, removing deadwood, and thinning the crown so light and air can move through.

Some species need more. Fruit trees and there are a lot of apple trees in Mississauga want annual attention rather than every few years.

Best time to prune is generally late winter through early spring, when trees are dormant and the structure is visible. Some species and some situations differ, which is worth a conversation before booking.

Trees showing 20–40% dieback can often be treated. Beyond that, removal is usually the safer and more economical option.

What to look for: thinning crown, dead branches in the upper canopy, yellowing foliage, bark cracks, and D-shaped exit holes. Adult beetles are active from June to August. Woodpecker damage on an ash is often the first visible sign.

A note on dead ash trees: they become brittle and unpredictable quickly, which makes removal more dangerous and more expensive the longer you leave it. If an ash on your property has died, it’s worth dealing with sooner.

A split at a main union or in the trunk is more serious than one in a smaller limb. Wind direction, lean, and what’s underneath all matter.

Three outcomes are possible:

• Removing a limb to relieve the stress and save the tree
• Cabling and bracing to stabilise it
• Removal, if the tree can’t be made safe

If a split has appeared recently, or after a storm, treat it as urgent. A compromised tree can fail without further warning. We’re available 24/7 for situations like this.

The most common issues we see:

A caution worth knowing: the pest you can see isn’t always the problem. Insects often colonise a tree that’s already stressed by something else — poor soil, root damage, drought, construction nearby. Treating the pest without finding the underlying cause frequently doesn’t help.

That’s what a proper assessment is for: identifying the actual cause before recommending anything.

In an urban yard, usually yes.

In a forest, trees feed themselves — leaves and branches fall, decay, and return nutrients to the soil. In a garden we rake all of that away, and lawns and other plantings compete for what’s left.

Nutrient deficiency is one of the most common causes of decline in urban trees. A hungry tree is more vulnerable to pests and disease, heals more slowly, and grows poorly.

Deep root feeding injects slow-release nutrients directly into the root zone rather than onto the surface, where grass takes most of it. It works on almost anything including cedars, and is typically done every one to two years.

Once a year, and timing matters by species.

Cedar hedges shouldn’t be cut before mid-June  they need to be fully out of dormancy first. Cutting too early causes damage that shows for seasons.

Beyond shaping, proper hedge care includes thinning, deadwooding, rejuvenation and structural pruning. Structural pruning isn’t cosmetic it’s what keeps a hedge dense and healthy rather than hollow in the middle with growth only at the tips.

Piece by piece, from the top down, usually with a crane.

We assess height, weight, lean and access first. For large or awkward removals, a climber works in the tree cutting sections while the crane takes the weight of each piece and lowers it under control — nothing falls.

Ground crew mulch as they go and clear the site fully. Stump grinding can be done in the same visit.

This is the work that goes wrong when it’s done badly. Weight, lean and access are what determine whether a removal is routine or hazardous, and misjudging any of them is how trees end up through roofs.

Yes

Storm damage, a tree down across a driveway, a limb on a roof, a tree leaning toward a house. Call 416-766-8331 and we’ll respond.

If a tree is on a hydro line, call the utility first, not us. Never approach a tree in contact with power lines.

Ask for two documents before anyone touches your trees:

• Proof of insurance — a certificate, current, naming the company
• WSIB clearance certificate

Homeowners can be held responsible for accidents on their property. If an uninsured worker is hurt in your yard, that can become your problem.